Musings about Bulawayo

I took a 5:45am bus from Harare to Bulawayo, Zimbabwe. It cost $13. The ride was comfortable and shorter than I had anticipated.

We arrived just before midday. I had not booked accommodation before leaving Harare so that meant walking around for two hours trying to find affordable accommodation for a backpacker. Eventually, I settled for a $12 a night “lodge” downtown.

The sofa took me back to my childhood.

The place definitely doesn’t qualify to be a lodge. It’s a double-storey building in a residential area. It was old and in need of a facelift. The outside paint was peeling. Inside, the furniture was old, but it was spacious and clean. It had no Wi-Fi or kettle to boil water. As someone who loves her tea, this was disheartening.

I paid for one night as I wanted to test it out before deciding whether to stay longer. It also didn’t help that the lady at reception wasn’t very welcoming. I checked in. One of the windows in my room was broken. I had to stuff it with my t-shirt to block out the chilly breeze at night.

My very basic but spacious room.

Anyway, after putting my belongings in my room, I went out again. I had to check out Bulawayo. The “lodge” was downtown so I walked towards the CBD. I needed to see shops and where to get food.

I found Bulawayo easier to navigate than Harare. This was mostly due to language. I understand Ndebele while Shona is a different story all together. I could ask for directions, and I wasn’t charged higher prices because when I spoke my language, they assumed I was speaking Ndebele.

Another thing, Bulawayo is way smaller than Harare and more laid back. I enjoyed the pace of the place. I walked for hours like I do with each and every city. I enjoyed a beautiful sunset before going back to the “lodge” for a restful evening.

Forever chasing sunsets.

I checked out the next morning after finding a cheaper place with Wi-Fi and a kettle! And the receptionist was very helpful and welcoming!

PS: Bulawayo is fairly safe for a solo traveller.